Head in the sand…

bag-O-moneyThe topic of current events arose in conversation this morning. The two major events that came up were the Nepal earthquake with the ongoing humanitarian aid efforts there and the situation in Baltimore.

In Nepal not only is there the topic of the humanitarian aid, but also the political elements involved with the relief communications problems. There is a long story about amateure radio and the Nepal governments apparent conflicts with the emergency preparations that some hams have been working on for years. It may have a connection to many lost lives which may have been saved had they not been blocked by government efforts. I am getting this information from a directly involved party, and I have every reason to believe him, but I know very little about the actual situation from first-hand knowledge. So while my heart goes out to the people of Nepal, it is hard to make educated comments on the political front.

With Baltimore, well, this is a tough subject to broach. As the title of this post says, my head has been in the sand. I know very little of what is actually going on. I did see the video of the mother who when she saw her son rioting and throwing rocks at police went down to the site, found him, and smacked him around. Nice to see a parent taking responsibility for their child by the way. I don’t know how much of or even if that story is true, I only saw one blog post and a video clip.

Where I’m going with this is I haven’t been paying a lot of attention to the media’s reports of what’s going on in the world lately. Mainly because these days the media, all media, has an agenda. They all want to have eyes on their “data.” Their revenue stream depends on viewership, so they must sell there “data” in whatever form to make money. Big Media has a market and a demographic they are selling to, so their perspective is skewed to that demographic. Further complicating things is the political connection of the management and owners of the media outlet further skewing the perspective and agenda.

Just to be perfectly clear, I don’t like or trust Big Media. I bet you already figured that out though. As the quote goes, “Follow the money.” Who has most of the money in the US, media and financial institutions. Who holds the most sway with elected officials, media and financial. Who shapes public opinion, media and financial. Do you think credit companies and banks want you to be debt free? Hell no! They would go broke. Do you think Big Media would be making billions if there was no public conflict? Same thing, hell no!

There are miscreants, there are bad cops, and the behavior of both is reprehensible, but these bad actors are in very small numbers. They are the instigators, knowingly or not, doing a job they are employed to do. Who do you think is at the root of backing and organizing the instigators?… This isn’t just about Baltimore. It is the direction the country is being manipulated. I know almost nothing about the situation in Baltimore. I have heard a lot, but I don’t KNOW very much at all. I refuse to be manipulated into an opinion by someone elses political/financial agenda.

I can only loosely observe trends. There are few verifiable facts being made available, and fewer sources that can be trusted to provide these facts with any modicum of objectivity. Observing trends and trying to sus out which way the wind is blowing is about the best we can hope for. Getting incensed about something because the media says its true only serves to distract us.

When a population is polarized, agitated, and distracted it doesn’t see the real problems it faces, the real instigators. Who is polarizing, agitating, and distracting us? Follow the money.

~FlyBoyJon

More 40 Meter Antenna Fun

20150430_155550Ya know that little voice, sounds like Han Solo in the back of your head “I got a bad feeling…” Yah, that one. Listen to it.

If you look at the image of the antenna base you may notice no screws holding the OS-239 in the bottom of the conduit angle. Now I didn’t leave it all up to gravity. I wound cotton twine around the threads a bunch to keep the connector centered in the hole and was hoping that because the epoxy was pretty thick it would hold down the connector.

20150430_163553Not exactly what I had hopped for. The string did act as a great fiber reinforcement to the epoxy though. Took me the better part of an hour to dig it all out and clear the threads this morning. I know things had gone wrong last night when I did the pour. Thats when I took this picture.

20150430_163541I figured trying to get the epoxy out of the conduit, off all of the components and try again would consume more time than just cleaning the mostly set up epoxy in the morning. Not to mention use up twice as much of a valuable resource. I was right on that one.

I had hoped to use a polyester resin but the can I had was older than I thought so I ended up using some West Systems T-88 structural epoxy, which was also a bit on the stale side so it was very thick. I had hoped that the thickness would be my saving grace on the SO-239. I had also hoped that a lot of the epoxy would filter down the PVC pipe with the antenna but not much of that happened either.

20150501_131622All in all things didn’t work out so bad. After some scaping, thread chasing, cutting and sanding a little gouging as well unfortunatly I managed to come out with a servicable antenna base and connector that is permanently sealed.

20150501_131150I double checked the connector with some feed cabling and all is well with that too. It won’t win any beauty contests and I’m okay with that. As long as it functions well and gives me a good match, that’s all that counts. I won’t be able to test it out until I get the last bits of the antenna finished.

If you look at the image at the top of the post you will see the steel whip is the same diameter as the fiberglass rod. I found some eighth inch bar stock in my materials along with a smaller brass rod so I shifted the plan slightly. I thought the whip should be of a diameter closer to the copper magnet wire of the antenna so the change made sense.

20150501_131901With the last few pieces cut all I need to do is drill, tap, and thread the antenna together then attach the wire to the spike and I can start finding resonance.

I should have the tap and die in the next few days so I should have a working, if not finished, antenna by the end of next week. This project seems to be taking a really long time to complete, and in a way it is. But I decided not to rush things along wouldn’t know it from the goo leak. I also have been doing a lot of day job stuff along the way so time has been divided.

That’s all for now, 73,
~Jon KK6GXG

40 Meter Antenna: Thought Process

I picked up some hardware to connect the antenna bits together into one cohesive unit. Sometimes with hardware you have to just go to the store and look around for solutions to a specific problem or situation.

20150426_122414With this project I wanted to keep things as simple as possible and use off-the-shelf materials that are easily found and relatively cheap. One of the pieces I wanted was a simple piece of hardware I have seen many times. I have even bought it and used it, a three or four-inch long nut.  We used to use them for connecting CB antennas to rigid mounts with a nylon spacer block on the bottom and a bolt. The same basic format used to connect the spring mount base for mobile use. The intended use in this project is to connect the steel spike at the top of the antenna to the fiberglass body.

I remember buying these at Orchards Supply and Ace Hardware. I never had a problem finding one back in the 80s. Yesterday I went to OSH and Home Depot and the employees looked at me like I was from mars. They had these little 1-1.5 inch versions for connecting all-thread, which is what I am looking for, just longer. No clue. Nothing registered on their faces, even with the smaller version in my hand.

20150426_122018Anyway, the next closest thing was turnbuckle bodies. The “solid” bodies were aluminum and the open body type looked like nickel plate and galvanized. I ended up buying an open body style, but it really brought about several issues. First and foremost are the mechanical issues. The contact points on both ends are fairly small, less than half an inch. Even with the fiberglass rod and the steel spike screwed down all the way and touching there is still only a half inch of contact on either end.  These things are intended for stresses in tension not in bending which s what they will be exposed to in this application.

The next issue is the left-hand thread of one end of the turnbuckle. I was willing to deal with this I even started looking for a LH die to thread the fiberglass and this is where I decided to take a step back, reevaluate, and take stock of my options.

20150426_121813At this point the base end has been worked out. The right-angle conduit box is the base and will have 12 inches of half-inch PVC conduit inserted in the port that is parallel to the box. The wound fiberglass rod will be inserted through the PVC pipe into the base. I will cut off all but an eight-inch of the other port which will be the outside housing of the SO-239 which will be inserted from the inside of the box.

Once the antenna coil is soldered to the SO-239 on the inside of the box I will fill the box and the PVC pipe with polyester resin making the base a single solid weatherproof piece. The reason for the PVC pipe being 12 inches long  is to provide a solid place for mounting standoffs to be attached. All done with off the shelf hardware and materials with only one minor modification and no special tools.

Now back to the top end and mounting the steel spike to the fiberglass rod. The most direct method is using the all-thread nut I originally wanted to use. Since it is not available, and a sufficient replacement in size, complexity, and structural strength does not appear to be an off the shelf item, at least around here, I guess I need to make one.

I thought of welding nuts together and other welded configurations but they all require more work than what is really the simplest solution. Drill a piece of half-inch bar stock and tap it for 5/16″ 18 threads per inch. I already picked up the die, now I just need the tap and drill.

This solution does require a couple of tools, tap and die along with their respective handles, the right size drill (an F), and a little machining. This operation isn’t really a big deal. If you have a bench top drill press it will make things easier, but it can be done by hand with a bench vice.

The remaining decision is material for the threaded block. I know I have aluminum and I think I have both steel and brass that are the right size, or at least useable.  I am leaning towards the steel or brass. Aluminum and steel don’t play well together when there is the potential for moisture penetration between the surfaces making galvanic corrosion an issue as well as heat dissipation and mechanical contact issues.

More to come on this subject soon.

73,
~Jon KK6GXG

40 Meter Antenna

With the direct conversion receiver now working and tuned into the 40 meter band, it’s time to get to work on a better choice of antenna. The dipole would be great if it were in the proper environment, but this indoor, RF noisy environment is not conducive to picking up much.

Since tuning the receiver to the band I have been picking up both voice and cw transmissions but they are deep in the band noise. The other issue is portability. While the dipole can be pulled down and packed up for field use, it won’t work well in a mobile environment and would be a chore at home to pull down and put back up. So a whip makes the most sense for now. If the whip works at home I can wind up the dipole and keep it in the ready for field use.

Right now my focus is on getting the receiver, antenna, and any needed matching equipment in place. Once that is all together I can turn my attention to filters, amplifiers, and a transmitter.

Scan from the 1975 ARRL Handbook, page 606.
Scan from the 1975 ARRL Handbook, page 606.

The antenna is a helically wound vertical that I mentioned in a previous post All Aboard the Project Train. I ordered a six foot fiberglass safety flag whip for the core and a fresh 1.5 pound spool of 14 AWG copper magnet wire to get the project going.

Yesterday I started the antenna construction by unrolling the 66.5 feet of copper wire and marking it every five feet, mostly so I didn’t lose my count. After dinner I started winding the coil onto the fiberglass in a tight coil. The picture in the header for this post is the fiberglass with about 30 feet wound on.

20150422_093128
66.5′ of 14 AWG copper wound onto a6′ x 3/8″ fiberglass rod

After winding the rest of the wire onto the fiberglass I threaded a dentists tool in between the wire wraps up the full length of the rod to create the uniform spacing for the coil.

On reflection at this point I think I might have opted for an 8 or 10 foot rod. For most applications it might be a better choice but neither would fit well indoors so 6 foot it is. I may build another antenna like this if it works well and try different lengths and diameters for different applications. A 10 foot whip would be better with a 1/2″ core and any longer would need 3/4″ or 1″ to remain stable unless it were placed inside a tube and filled with epoxy resin, another option. I haven’t tested any of these, I’m just spitballing with the structural integrity issue and weather resistance.

20150421_220832Now that the coil is done, the most difficult and time consuming part I think, it is time to move on to the spike and the base.

The plan for the spike is to pick up a small piece of 3/8″ copper tubing about 4″ long and use a coax crimping tool to mechanically center and attach a 1/4″ steel rod to about 2″ then sweat solder it together. After the spike is properly affixed, scoot the coil up a bit and solder the copper wire to the tube, add some epoxy inside the tube and scoot it back onto the fiberglass rod. This should give plenty of mechanical stability to both the spike and the rod as well as a good electrical contact. To help prevent galvanic corrosion I will coat the steel/copper interface with a few coats of lacquer.

The base is where I am going to have to think some more. The diagram calls for a variable inductor at the base of the antenna. I don’t think I will need this because I am planning on using an adapted Z-Match antenna tuning unit from chapter 23 of QRP Basics but that is for the next project.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIn the mean time I am thinking about using a PVC/ABS 90º conduit fitting with an access panel, cutting off and sealing up the right angle (on the bottom of the image), inserting the bottom of the antenna with the wire sticking up out of the box a little and filling the cavity with epoxy resin, leaving enough room to install an exterior lug fitting to attach the wire to on the inside.  For mechanical stability and to provide a secure mounting point I was thinking about using 6″ of conduit around the antenna and filling that with epoxy resin as well.

I hope to get the spike done this week and the base over the weekend. While out and about getting the final parts for the antenna I will be hitting HSC for the parts for the Z-Match. Another busy week for radio. 🙂

73,
~Jon KK6GXG

New-To-Me Signal Generator

120 kc (kHz) to 200 mc (MHz)
120 kc (kHz) to 200 mc (MHz)

On Saturday I picked up a few things at the De Anza Electronics Flea Market. The most impressive acquisition would be the Lafayette Signal Generator for $20.

I have been needing one and I was dreading the prospect of having to build one and having a tough time without the right tools for calibrating it, so this was a great find and a steal of a value, though I didn’t know it for sure until today.

One thing I have learned about buying used electrical/electronic equipment, particularly in at a flea market, is that you have to take your time and open it up, get documentation, inspect and clean the equipment before attempting to use it, or plug it in for that matter.

20150414_075130 Sunday was opening day. I noticed right away that I would need to replace the power cord grommet as it was in two pieces. I didn’t actually get to anything else until today.

Today I inspected all of the wiring and components, looked for hot spots and anything that would indicate an over heat. Having found nothing of the sort I moved on to cleaning, which there was surprisingly little to do. I made sure the tubes were cleaned and had no fingerprints on them. Now that I have a piece of tube equipment I will need to get a tube tester. 😉

With the cleaning done it was time for the plug-in and smoke tests. No pops and and no smoke! I let everything warm up and burn in for a good twenty minutes before starting any tests.

Testing with the oscilloscope began with the AF (audio frequency) side of the generator. After the twenty minute warm up period the “approximately 400 cycles” audio tone as specified in the manual turned out to be stable at 388 cycles (Hertz). I can work with that.

“kc” is kilocycles. The term is essentially the same as the more familiar kilohertz along with “mc” megacycles being the same as megahertz. The change over in terminology occurred slowly from the mid 70s to the mid 80s. Many hams still use kc and mc. I use them interchangeably depending what I am referencing or who I’m talking with. This piece of equipment has frequency labeled on the dial as kc and mc.

20150417_152319Moving on… The generator did its first diagnostics job with a portable amplifier I have had for a very long time (the one on the right). I clipped on the amp to the audio out and it turn out the volume control on the amp is trashed from banging around in my tool bags for a couple of decades so I will need to replace the potentiometer in that this weekend.

I then moved over to the RF (radio frequency) side of the generator and clipped on the oscilloscope. The RF side is divided into 5 switchable bands. I checked each band by referencing the frequency on the dial with the frequency on the O-scope. All five bands checked out very closely to the dial. A little lead or lag here-and-there, but overall pretty close for this equipment and its age which I’m guessing is about as old as me (made in the mid/late 60s).

20150417_152206The frequency counter I purchased last year has been giving me problems. New equipment, cheap (figuratively and cost), and no manual. With the help of the new sig gen and the oscilloscope I managed to fix a couple of minor problems and figure out the modes on the counter in the process. Looks like the electronics bench is finally coming together.

Now that I can check the receivers I build I can also check the transmitters I plan on building. I can also check portions of the radios as the construction moves forward. I plan on building more of my own test equipment but it’s nice to have a reference point or two to calibrate off of.

I also did some diagnostics on the 40 meter direct conversion receiver project and updated the project page… some very interesting results, you should take a look. 🙂

A productive day I think.

73,
~Jon KK6GXG

All Aboard the Project Train

Sometimes it is indeed a project train, not just a project; occasionally a train wreck, but it’s early so we’ll hope for the best.

Now that I have built several receivers and a transmitter for 40 meters, I probably should have an antenna that does more than pick up all the RF noise around the shack. The antenna, and I use the word loosely, is nothing more than a dipole of 26 AWG insulated wire strung around the house. While it might work well if the wire was straightened out on a hill top, or even in a backyard, elevated 15 feet or more above ground, in its current incarnation, in a word, it sucks.

Next up on the project block, an antenna, sort of…

I have been looking at several small footprint antenna options like spiral coils that look like those God’s Eye yarn and popsicle stick things you may have made as a kid,  the one in the movies from the 40s when the resistance spy transmitting Nazi secrets and the SS storms in. It looks like a X and has thin wire wound around it.
288And Small Loop antennas that look more like old direction finding antennas on aircraft. And by the way, according to the formulas and general information, for 40 meters, not so small, 10′ diameter.

Now there are lots of variations and tons of experimental configurations to run with, and I do want to play with many of the possible configurations, but I need a stable, small, portable option for the immediate future. Something I could mount on the car, throw up on a pole, or stand up on the back porch, all without much effort. I also need to keep the cost down.

Scan from the 1975 ARRL Handbook, page 606.
Scan from the 1975 ARRL Handbook, page 606.

Enter the Helically-Wound Short Vertical. I ordered some 14 AWG lacquered copper magnet wire and a 72″ long 5/8″ diameter fiberglass rod, I need to learn to make these so I also ordered a How-To book on making composite fishing rods, and I’m in $20 so far. I have all of the hardware items including the 12″ spike for the top. What I don’t have is the variable inductor, or a tuner.

Whooooo Whooooo! Here comes the train.

RollspuleLets start with the one I haven’t done any research on yet, the variable inductor. The mechanics are fairly simple, rotate the coil and the follower moves up and down the coil creating a tap point. As long as the coil is perfectly cylindrical, the follower makes good contact, and smoothly moves down its axis rod, no sweat. he he he, no sweat I only need the one variable inductor according to the diagram so I really need to find out what value I need. I already have several small value iron-core variable inductors so I may not need to make this one, but if I do, it will be a homebrew. These things are a high-dollar item otherwise.

Moving on to the antenna matching unit. I have plans for one that is fairly simple and straightforward, I even have most of the parts on hand. What I don’t have is the variable capacitors. Sensing a theme here? Variable…

cav-167-205-71_lgBA funny coinky-dink on capacitors; while I was doing research on the Small Loop antennas I came across several websites that went into some lengthy discussions on making variable caps. Turns out, they aren’t that hard to make, I even have nearly all of the materials to make several. Not only are they fairly easy to make, but the formulas for calculating the capacitance based on the area of the plates, number of plates, and the distance between the plates is also fairly straight forward.

So lets see where we are now…
I have three receiver and one transmitter for 40 meters. There is an antenna for them, but it sucks particularly in this location. My next project is to build another transmitter, But I will need a better antenna first…

  1. Antenna
  2. Resonator for antenna (variable inductor)
  3. Antenna tuner
  4. Variable capacitors for the tuner

Now, after these are done I can move on to the new transmitter. As a side note, with the next transmitter project I wanted to pump up the power all the way to a couple of watts, not just miliwatting it. I also want to include SSB (Single SideBand, voice) as well as CW so I can incorporate digital modes into the shack. For all of this the antenna really needs to be better than what I am using.

That’s all for now, 73,
~Jon KK6GXG

40 Meter Loose End

20150410_115049Today just started off good. The post came early and an expected package came a few days early, my QSL card order from Vistprint.

I’m not quite sure when I will need to send any out, but now I have them and I am very happy with how they came out. I’m also very proud of them, I spent the better part of a day working on the layout and confirming the text-safe areas around the card. The finish product is just what I was hoping for.

20150408_154753A couple of days ago I got a package in the post from another ham, Brad  (AA1IP) and oh my, what a box it was. A medium sized  USPS Priority Mail box filled to the top with stuff.

I started sorting it out that evening and last night and again this morning. Its all sorted into like or similar components. There is still a lot of sorting to do, particularly with resistors and capacitors. Among the jumble there were a few packets of resistors already sorted by value and those are my project for tonight. Get them all stowed away.

20150408_162644The sorting process will take a while and I’m in no rush, so bag by bag over time it will all find homes. Once I get everything stowed I may ask for another. Mmmm, a masochist, I am *in my best Yoda voice*.

A small follow up project got completed over lunch today. I finally finished the power cable for the 40 meter receiver I built. The original plan was to build the receiver and a follow up transmitter, package them together, and power them both with a solar charger / battery pack. Also in the original plan was to build out the cable from scratch.

Funny thing about plans… I dont have any good multi-conductor cable anymore. The closest I have is some cat 5 and some twisted-pair for telco work. Nether is appropriate for this project. I was waiting to go to the Electronics Flea Market @ DeAnza this weekend but I also have plans to go to a radio builders club meeting on Sunday and check things out there. I was encouraged to bring my project along, and since the build was complete I thought I should power it as planned.

20150410_132528Long story short, I know, too late, I decided to pull an extra USB printer cable out of my computer junk box and use an existing cable, clip an end, and install the power plug. Easy peasy.  The plug isn’t quite big enough for the cable but I adapted it and heat shrunk that end for some extra stability. Thoroughly checked it for shorts and opens twisting it about and we are good to go.

The radio can now be powered by a computer, USB car adapter, or the solar power supply I had originally intended to use. Any standard USB source with the appropriate 5 volts will do.

I’m sure I’ll have more to post about after the Flea and the club meeting.

Until then, 73,
~Jon KK6GXG

 

Radio Goals

I tend to view “goals” as an intermediary point, even a starting point in many cases. They are rarely endpoints, and when they are it’s usually only an end in an administrative sense, like earning my Amateur Extra license. Administratively I reached an endpoint because it is the highest level in the Amateur Service, but in reality it’s a beginning. There is so much to learn that requires I earn the license first.

My current goals in radio are much the same. They are the getting-to-the-starting-line kinds of goals. I started studying for my commercial radio license shortly after I earned my amateur Technician class license. Well, that is to say I bought the study guide and began reading it. I also purchased some test prep software. While I have been poking at it off and on, I hadn’t made any serious efforts to study until this week.

Earning the GROL (General Radio Operators License) has been a goal since I started studying for my Technician, I just hadn’t set a hard date for it. I am still refining the hard date, but it will be this year before the end of June. I also have a goal to get the RADAR endorsement added to the GROL license, this year.

Another goal is to get on-the-air using CW (Morse Code) at 10-15 wpm (words per minute) by the end of the year. This is most definitely a starting point. It is the lead in to getting my commercial Radiotelegraph license.

GROL and RADAR are personal goals that also have a pragmatic side. With these licenses I am authorized to work on most marine and aviation radios and RADAR. This includes mobile (in the craft) and land based comm, RADAR, and navigation radios. A big boon for the aviation pilot/mechanic/instructor. This also opens up some doors in the commercial and government radio services.

Learning CW is purely personal. The CW requirement for an amatuer radio licenses went away entirely in 2007 but it was one of the factors that kept me away from ham for 30 years. Now that it is gone from amateur radio requirements my only way to concor that obstacle is to learn it, practice it, become proficient in it, and get the only class of license that still requires it; a commercial Radiotelegraph license.

The Radiotelegraph license process has four components, two written test elements, one of which I will have already passed with my GROL, and two code test elements. The code tests are 16 code groups per minute, and 20 wpm at 100% copy accuracy.

Like some other commercial licenses there used to be different classes of license, now there is only one radiotelegraph license and this consolidation happened relatively recently. I want to be sure and do this before the class goes away altogether; so my goal for this license is to take the code exam elements before the end of summer 2016. This should give me plenty of time to build speed and proficiency.

Fortunately the amateure radio service has lots of room for code practice and plenty of cw hams to keep practicing and improving the skill. I am looking forward to learning the code well enough to get on the air soon!

73,
~Jon KK6GXG

A First

ARRL-VEC VEToday marks a first for me. Today was the first time I participated in an amateur radio license exam session as a Volunteer Examiner.

The session went well and I had the opportunity to help usher in several new hams to the Amateur Radio Service.

Also on the hit parade this morning was an invite/recruitment to work as a VE at the 2015 Bay Area Maker Faire in San Mateo. I will be working the Sunday, May 17th, morning shift and then floating around the faire, most likely with frequent stops at anything ham or RF electronics related. It should be a lot of fun. For more information see the Maker Faire Ham Test flyer (PDF).

If you are interested in getting your Amateur Radio license there are a lot of resources, but if I were to give only one link to get you going it would be ARRL.org/getting-licensed. As always if you have any questions send me an email, tweet, or message through any of the social media links up at the top of the right column on this page. I am always happy to answer questions.

A resource page for hams and hams-to-be is in the works.

Blog Anxiety

I have always struggled with keeping up on the blog writing. It seems like I never have time to post when I want to and finding the inspiration at other times is fleeting at best. Since I set up the other blog for my radio stuff I don’t seem to have a problem with ether.

Any regular blogger will say you have to have something you are passionate about and actively engaged it to make a blog work. I am passionate about aviation but I haven’t been as actively engaged as I would like, so I guess that explains the difficulties.

This blog has never really felt focused to one specific thing. I tried to focus it on several occasions, but that never really seemed to work out. I have usually ended up with this place as more of a rambling stump than an active blog. Funny how I seem to be able to post more here now that I am actively, and daily involved with the other site.

However you chose to look at it i guess it is good that I am using both more frequently now. I have a place for a specific passion and a place to stump speech-a-fie as I deem necessary. Like this post, thoughts that I wanted to get out but might not otherwise have written because it didn’t fit the intention of the site. Well, now this site is more free-form I can post whatever whenever and not feel like I am doing something that doesn’t fit.

Just a musing.

~FlyBoyJon

Amateur Radio, Emergency Communications, Traffic Handling and more